Greyhound Inn Siddington |
Country Matters
By The Hodge
“Let’s get
out of these wet clothes and into a dry Martini!”
Anonymous 1920s
Nobody
likes change. It’s a fact but it’s also a fact that change constantly happens
so we must learn to live with it. As I get older I am saddened by the decline
in an institution that has been around for centuries; something just about
unique to Britain but more especially to England and Wales – the country pub.
Pubs
evolved from inns that were the mainstay of the traveller using horse-drawn
transport. For any long journey by coach it was necessary to break every so
often to rest and change horses and inns thrived and prospered as part of the
mix.
Most
of these developed into hotels and pubs and flourished during my younger life
as independent, individual establishments. Many were full of character, (and
characters!), and relied on selling ale and beers. For most, food beyond a
packet of crisps with a twist of salt in a little blue paper wrap, was unheard
of.
Then
came the big brewers and began the decline by forcing everyone to drink
chemical beers for their convenience and sales of bitter in the form of
Watney’s Red Barrel and the like began
to give way to continental lagers.
The
downward spiral continued in the late 1960s when the Barbara Castle’s breathalyser
arrived and suddenly remote country pubs saw their trade fall overnight.
But
despite all this the village pub mostly survived and food began to make an
appearance to supplement beer sales. To begin with, it was just sandwiches but
soon we began to learn to love chicken in a basket or scampi even!
Then
big companies started to take over individual pubs and make harmonised chains
so that you could have the same experience in Cheltenham or Chippenham. Food
got more adventurous and then children were allowed in. The days of the working
man’s alehouse were over.
Tony
Blair introduced almost unrestricted opening times and independent pubs
struggled to stretch limited resources to compete with chain pubs. The EU
banned smoking and another big chunk of the country pub’s custom fell away,
finding it easier to drink cheap supermarket booze at home and smoke in peace.
The
poor old village pub has had everything thrown against it. It’s adapted and
many have survived despite business rate rises just coming in. But many have
gone and once gone seem never to return. The Red Lion at Ampney St Mary is
likely to become a private house. The Royal Oak at South Cerney has been closed
for weeks – will it ever reopen? The Tavern at Kemble is in a similar state. In
recent years The Woodbine in town has gone as have two pubs in Ashton Keynes;
The White Horse at Frampton Mansell and The Crown Inn at Tetbury. And those are
just the ones off the top of my head. There are doubtless many more.
Of
course businesses that are no longer viable must close but it seems that of all
businesses the pub has had more to compete with than most.
The
country pub is a part of our heritage, a unique part. It’s often the centre of
village life, where people go to drink, eat and socialise. To play skittles,
cards, darts and other games; to compete in quizzes and even karaoke nights. Of
many things that are changing in our lives, to me at least, the country pub is
one worth preserving. To my mind, we won’t half miss it once it’s gone.
The Hodge is a countryside writer with a series of books to his name.